I've said it before and I'll say it again, professionals do a professional job and if you want your above ground pool installed properly, go to a guy who does it for a living. That being said, I know there are a bunch of you weekend warriors out there who love to do these kinds of things yourself, so here are some basic instructions on how you go about installing your own above ground pool.
Note, you will need the services of an electrician if you don't already have a nearby electrical source that is suitable for outdoor use. A working knowledge of basic plumbing could be handy too.
- Before you even choose a pool you’re going to have to decide on a place in your yard that will be suitable to take one. The ground needs to be fairly level, free of large stones and rocks. You need to have access to a ground fault protected outdoor electrical outlet and the location will be an open area away from trees and large bushes which will drop leaves, flowers and fruit into your pool year round.
- Select your pool. The various sizes and shapes are detailed in the Types of Above Ground Pools section. If you’re going to set up one of the more complicated configurations you will probably want to hire a professional installer. If you’re set on installing it yourself, read on.
- Level an area larger than the pool size. This will be one of the most important steps of the entire project. If the pool is set on an uneven or sloping surface there will be an uneven pressure placed on the outer wall which could cause your pool to buckle or break. Laying a board on your cleared ground and then using a spirit level will confirm that you’ve got yourself a level surface.
- Next you’ll want to ensure that the ground doesn’t contain any sharp rocks, sticks or other items that may put a hole in your pool liner. Once all hard objects are removed put down a reasonably thick layer of clean builders sand and smooth and level it. Then pack the sand down so that it is nice and firm.
- Set up the side wall, fasten the joints with the machine screws provided. Then place the liner inside the walls, letting the top hang over the outside of the wall 2 to 3 inches. Temporarily secure the liner so that you can effectively spread it out smoothly around the bottom, pulling any slack or wrinkles toward the walls from the center. When the liner is smoothed and pulled out evenly, unroll the top trim and snap it into place, securing the liner.
- Stand up your metal support posts, setting them on the plastic base plates, if it is so equipped. Connect the coping as you install the posts, to support the assembly. Make sure you slip the post through any slots or sleeves built into the line as you go. The coping should slide through a seamed tube in the top of the liner. Once the coping has been completely put in place around the pool circumference, you are ready to give the liner a final smooth to ensure there are no creases or crevasses around the pool bottom.
- Fill the pool with water, checking that the water is rising level all the way around the pool. It’s at this point where you get your final confirmation that your leveling exercise was a success. If it looks as though the pool is significantly out of level, you’re going to have to stop and start all over again – not a very pleasant experience.
- Install the hoses for your filter system while the pool is filling. These usually attach to precut holes in the pool side, and clamp to the filter pump assembly with screw thread hose clamps. You will also have to make the holes housing the skimmer box and the water return waterproof with a strong waterproof sealant. If you’re using a sand filter you will want to do a thorough backwash of the filter because the mineral is going to be very dirty. Once the water runs clean and clear you can set the dial to “Filter” and run the filter normally.
- After around 12 – 24 hours you can add the chemicals to the pool. The only reason that you would wait before adding chemicals is to ensure that they don’t affect the sealant before it goes off properly.
